Dadoes are used everywhere; from case construction to drawer boxes. Learning to set up and use a dado head will go a long way toward expanding your joinery techniques. This class will give you the ins and outs of setting up the dado head and safely making cuts.

A dado head consists of two rim blades, used on the outside of the stack, and chipper blades, which build up the thickness of the dado head. Just in case the chippers don’t get you to the perfect width you need you should also have dado shims on hand. Dado shims run from .002” to .030” thick and will allow you to customize the size of the head for any dado you need.

Become a Member or Log In to see the entire class!

 

Advertisement
>

Category: All Videos, Dadoes on the Table Saw, Premium Videos, Recently Added, and Woodworking Classes.

  • http://fcogwaco.com Steve Kreins

    Thanks George, great lesson.

    • George Vondriska

      Thanks. Glad you liked it.

  • Steven Akers

    Good video. Very useful and practical.

  • SparkTink

    Thank you for the video. I am building storage for 5 gallon water jugs & it will fit 9 jugs in a 3 by 3 pattern. It needs to be strong to hold this weight, so I wanted to cut the dadoes in the best place for strength. I will cut them with a router and a jig. For strength should I cut them on the sides of the vertical pieces of the case or should I cut them on the tops and bottoms of the horizontal shelf pieces? Thank you for your help and sharing your expertise.

    • Customer Service

      Hi, SparkTink! I’d cut them in the sides of the vertical pieces. If you dado the horizontal pieces you’ll diminish their strength. For instance if you use 1-1/2″ thick material and dado 1/2″ deep, you’ve reduced its strength to that of 1″ material.

  • Gerald B. Curtis

    I think you missed mentioning an important tip when the need to install shims is required.

    I have a satisfactory Porter-Cable dado set with shims (unlike the set sold at Lowes that had/have the end-blades teeth angles reversed), but I appreciate now more fully the need to add shims after a test when the width of the cut is off a tad.

    Your shims are shown to have been cut-out notched so that the need (not always possible) to remove chippers and end-blades can be avoided as the shims can simply be slipped into place.

    I would go a step farther and merely SLIT, without notching, the shim from edge to axle-hole so that the chippers/end-blades on either side bear FULLY on the shim faces rather than risk even the resulting slight wobble of the chippers/end-blades.

    The use of bar-stock is a GREAT tip.